Paying Homage To Sardinian Textiles

Long considered the luxury travellers paradise, the Costa Smeralda, Sardinia is where the billionaires holiday in the high season, arriving in their private jets and yachts from around the globe.

Set in the heart of the Mediterranean, Sardinia (Sardegna) is a region of Italy west of the mainland and south of the island of Corsica. It is an enchanting island to travel around and you cannot deny its relentless beauty.

Typically known for alluring beaches with emerald coloured water, a marvel of rugged mountain ranges and wild hinterlands, surprising quaint inland villages, and so much more. As you expand away from the turquoise-coloured coastline you will be intrigued by the rugged landscape noticeably scattered with Nuraghe (stone ruins) and one of the largest and oldest dating back to 1500 B.C.

I recognised from an early age that my Sardinian heritage is a contrast to other regions in Italy and one to be proud about. The result – a need to write an article that touches briefly on my travels and experiences. And yet, my knowledge is primarily from the people that I know past and present, who have lived and breathed the land. Through observation I believe ‘Sardinia’ hinges on traditions, and it is my opinion that it continues to retain a superb diversity which rivals no other.

Be that as it may, the second wave of post-war immigration brought my father to Australia in search of work and a better future.  My late father was known for making bold courageous choices and this was undoubtedly his biggest, disembarking at the impressionable age of nineteen.  My mother followed five years later and they married here.  

They began to make a new life together, but never lost their cultural values, constantly reminiscing with stories of their upbringing in Sardinia.  It is because of them that I feel so attached to my ancestry and look back on my childhood where customs were instilled in me. One of many examples the folk music played at momentous occasions, accompanied by dancing (su ballu), and singing sacred chants called ‘gosos’ and playing a ‘launeddas’ (an ancient instrument dating back to the 8th century BC).

Sardinian folk music has a distinct euphonious sound that engages you, and for me evokes fond memories of the past and its ability to transport my parents back to their homeland through strong musical expression. It seemed to come to them effortlessly as they sung ‘cantu’ and danced ‘ballu’ merging together with family and friends.

The ‘cantu’ was mostly amongst the men, also known as ‘cantu a tenòre, a polyphonic style of singing. The chorus (usually made up of three or four men) apparently reproduces the ancestral sounds of the wind, cow and sheep.  

My parents settled into their new country remarkably well and better than most I thought. We lived in a bushland setting north of Sydney. They both embraced life with their four children, obviously born in a vastly different culture. I loved how my mother adorned our home with furnishings that suited the times but managed to morph in discreetly with her Sardinian pieces acquired during her travels, and this seemingly just worked!

My father ran his own business as a property developer and grabbed all the opportunities that were available to him in a newfound land and essentially gave it a good hard crack, and boy did he, achieving great success. I am certain his high expectations of himself were driven by his Sardinian origin.

The Interrelation

So, what is the interrelation between Sardinian music, strong Sardinian culture and textiles? The short answer is the emphasis on the customs passed down for generations encompassing a rich distinctiveness to the Island and one that resonates with you.

Upon my first journey to Sardinia as a child I witnessed an unshakeable sense of pride amongst the people for their island, and it all made sense why my parents retained their strong customs. In fact, the first time my parents ventured back in the 70’s (although we visited breathtaking cities and coastlines in the mainland and historical European landmarks) it was only once my father reached Sardinia that he commissioned a container to ship back purchases of locally weaved rugs, handmade ceramics, and artefacts, all seemingly infused with the traditions of Sardinia.

I genuinely understood my father’s innate desire to take home reminders of his birthplace, having returned to his roots after so long. Unfortunately, these coveted pieces were difficult to find in Australia ‘back in the day’ and if you were fortunate enough to acquire one, it was most likely gifted to you by a family member or friend.  Sardinian textiles were in effect unknown outside of the Island until recently. Evidently, living 14,671 kilometres away on another rugged and rich ‘Island’ (my home Australia) was no mean feat for importers and residential designers.

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My Travels to Sardinia  

Travelling Sardinia as an adult was obviously a different experience. It wasn’t just about the emerald-coloured beaches, the incredible locations, unsurpassed food or the people - I was captivated with the incredible array of textiles and obscure designs (some quite simplistic due to the long ancient history) and to this day keep evolving and applied in interior decoration all over the world.

Rich Weaving History

The craft of weaving has always been a part of Sardinia’s rich ancient history. It was a time-honoured custom for each generation of weavers to curate old patterns to conserve traditional heirlooms. The patterns are even known to be found in ancient artefacts. Without a doubt my special interest in textiles and design is inherent.

                                     Each ‘pibione’ was counted and

                                  wound by hand, or graph.

The ‘pibiones’ (meaning grapes) is a popular and common technique of hand weaving, where a pattern is made by raised loops in the design resulting in a dotted texture. Each pibione was counted and wound by hand, eye, or a graph, one pibione at a time, the warp (the base fibre) was generally wool or cotton.

However, in the 1960’s the textile industry was revolutionised. The Sardinian Institute for the Organisation of Artisanal Labour set in motion courses to promote the distribution of Sardinia’s craft production and the development of artisans through these special courses and education platforms.

The initiative and objective of the organisation (also known as ISOLA) was embraced in Samugheo, a town in the heart of Sardinia and within a few years a group of small businesses were established to meet market demands. 

If I had to select a town which has an abundant craft textile handed down over centuries, it would be Samugheo. This town is named the ‘cradle’ of the ancient Sardinian textile district. It celebrates culture and traditions, embracing its history of carpets, linens and cloths that were typically crafted by hand.

                                         Women were dedicated to

                                       weave to make their ‘corredo’

Not that long ago every woman in Samugeho wove for a family’s needs and was involved in textile art, expected to weave from the age of 12. Women were dedicated to weave to make their ‘corredo’ (also known as a ‘glory box’ or ‘wedding chest’) this included items such as fine bed linens, bedspreads and even handbags.

Few traditional hand weavers remain today due to the mechanical loom which started to appear in the 1950's, bringing more freedom to women, ending an art that required tremendous mechanical skill, physical capabilities, and an abundance of patience.

Evidently this changed even more in the last 30 years for textile houses, allowing creations to be digitised before the actual weaving begins, enabling worldly designs and production to be ‘rethought’.

Mariantonia Urru (M/U) is a design and textile weaving workshop founded in 1981 by Mariantonia, in Samugheo. She and her four sons grew her textile business into an internationally recognised workshop. M/U blend manual historical work with high-tech machines and leading-edge designs. Her textiles are said to be the “link between the past and present, a link between innovation and tradition”  https://www.mariantoniaurru.com/about/ .

                                         A willingness to change for

                                      the next generation

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This modernistic view ultimately allows M/U to work with international designers like Paulina Herrera Letelier, Carolina Melis, Mario Cucinella, Mariposa, and design studio Pretziada, just to name a few. Many of the designers are from ‘Sardegna’ who have a connection to their land and essentially a desire to curate aesthetically relevant creations to depict the Sardinian way of life. M/U has a willingness to change for the next generation, with a nod to the past and an eye to the future.

Sourcing Sophisticated Sardinian Textiles in Australia for Designer Styling

Sourcing traditional and contemporary Sardinian rugs in Australia is thankfully no longer a challenge.

If you visit Halcyon Lake in Victoria, a long-standing family business, you will not be disappointed. They deliver a product and service of the highest quality and host a superb collection of rugs available either online or in their light filled showroom. They have an expansive area for viewing their range, as well as displaying an extensive collection of textured and timeless rugs and carpets from all over the globe. Yet the prizewinner for me is their nostalgic re-invented assortment of rugs from Mariantonia Urru. Naturally!

Article written by Marina Mura

^Sources:

^{Halcyon Lake}

https://halcyonlake.com/

^{Mariantonia Urru}

^{Arts & Culture – The Carpets of Sardinia}

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^{All illustrated concept boards in this article - by Evoke Interior Decorating}

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